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Few places better exemplify Barcelona’s long history than this hilltop structure, which holds a complicated place in the city’s heart.

At times, Montjuïc Castle has promised protection to the people of Barcelona or loomed as a threat. Though one of the most imposing parts of the cityscape, the castle was not built until the mid 17th century, when a fort was constructed to defend insurgent Catalonia from the Spanish crown. It changed hands often, sometimes occupied by armies that used it to bombard a resistant city into submission. During the Spanish Civil War it was a center for torture and execution. Learn about its twisted history and look onto Barcelona spread out below.

Before doing anything else, appreciate the view from the hilltop, one of the highest natural points in Barcelona. Watch people moving about below, as generations of defenders and attackers before you have done from these stone walls. Pass through the solid exterior gate into the interior courtyard, where you’ll find a landscaped garden.

Wander through the exhibits illustrating the complex history of the place without sugarcoating. An equestrian statue of Spanish dictator Francisco Franco stood here before being vandalized by Spaniards still irate about Franco’s brutal rule.

Think about the implications of the castle’s past on a tour around the moats or go deeper with a guided tour of the castle’s prisons. On summer evenings, join Barcelona’s people reclaiming the space with movie projections on the grassy lawns of the former moats.

One of the exciting things about Montjuïc Castle is deciding how to get here. Take the cable car from Barceloneta Port and the funicular from the base of the mountain. The cable car closes for maintenance in the winter, but there is a replacement bus. Walk from Plaça d’Espanya in about 45 minutes, but make sure to bring enough water during the summer, as the upward path can be steep and tiring. Drive from the city center in about 20 minutes. Metered parking is available near the castle in a public lot.

The castle is open for visitors daily from mid morning to late evening, with slightly shorter hours in winter. There is an entrance fee. Guided tours are available daily.

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